Some Injuns speak with one of these. After 3 days I'm beginning to be able to spot the scammers. They always ask 'First time in India?' and if you say yes, they proceed with a merciless, headspinning onslaught of deception, fakery and duplicity in an effort to part you from as much money as they can reasonably think of. Complete rascals. Estate agents are angels in comparison, though I did once have a similar feeling of outright loathing for an Everest double glazing salesman.

It's enough to spoil your mood if you're not on top form. This is a shame, as there are just as many nice people (even some of the taxi drivers), but the problem is that you tend to get worn down by the hassles and become wary of everybody.

Today been up in the hills at Gulmarg, allegedly the world's highest ski resort. Had a stroll up to 3200m, about the level of the lowest snow patches, and felt the thin air. Massive pine trees and poplars dotted about everywhere, amid grassy pastures just like the Alps. Lovely.

Plans a bit sketchy, but hoping to arrange a short trek here then get myself over the hills to Leh, where I hope for some reprieve among them mellow buddhist types.