Samosas are very cheap, 3 rupees each (about 4p), and fresh on the street. Click on the lower image if it hasn't come up on your browser.

You can also buy a yummy bag of spicy deep fried vegetables for 10 rupees. And, just like shopping should be, it's a refreshingly simple transaction that doesn't involve any unnecessary discussion of your travel plans or mention of a close relative's carpet business. Incidentally, most things in shops are pretty cheap, it's services that seem to be expensive - musch more so than, say, Thailand.

Have moved out of the houseboat to avoid the owners, as I'm fed up with them trying to sell me things I don't want, and the food was getting samey. Also, having a house-servant was too weird. Am now in a hotel, which is cheaper and doesn't creak all night. Bonus: there is no ferryman trying to sell me a trip round the lake every time I go outside the front door.

Have been trying to make arrangements to move on, by getting a flight to Leh. It's only 400 km, but the bus takes 2 days and I can't seem to summon any enthusiasm for that! Unfortunately, the web-based airlines in India don't seem to want to take my money. The t'interweb isn't as big here as in SE asia, and everything takes ages.