Sorta hanging around til the first available semi-luxury bus goes, on Tuesday. It takes 12h to get to Kargil, where it stops for the night, then a further 12h from there to Leh. Today the road is closed for blasting and clearing - in fact it hasn't been open for more than a couple of weeks since the winter snows receded. I have a ticket to fly out of Leh to Delhi on 9 July.
It turns out that, due to recent fraud scams, none of the boutique airlines are accepting foreign credit cards for on-line bookings, which makes them totally useless. However, for all your Kashmiri travel needs I recommend Farooq at Destination India Travel Centre - a thoroughly nice man who helped me out in my hour of need, and all for the standard 100 rupees commission.
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