Found some delicious Wonderloaf today and had banana butties. Cheese obsession has melted slightly.

I dived, or (seriously, someone from America said this yesterday...) dove, yesterday: 3 good dives (doves?), but visibility was rubbish compared with last week. First dive was a wrecked ferry at about 22m; not sure about wreck diving; until the reef builds up it's a bit like going to the scrapyard for a trip out. Lots of cleaner fish nipping my legs, that was a bit freaky until I realised they don't actually bite. Much better were Shark Point and Anemone Reef. Beautiful, beautiful, just beautiful.

Also had good snorkelling a couple of days ago when I tracked a big cuttlefish for about 10 minutes, watching it constantly change colour in dazzling ripples of unbeleivable variety. How do they do that? Then when I got too close, it shot off backwards using jet-propulsion: see ya mate. They have big intelligent eyes, and brains that wired very differently from vertebrates: aliens, basically. I want to know more. And coral snakes foraging around on the sea floor - they can hold their breath for yonks, it must come with the slow reptilian metabolic rate.

Did some 'deep water soloing' out on the local islands, but couldn't psyche for the big drops. Testosterone-driven maniacs like Yorkshire Alex, and oestrogen-driven sisters from California doing it for themselves, were soloing and jumping off from 45 feet up like back injuries never happen. I was content to back off the cruxes and jump in from 15 feet, along with the majority of motley punters forming the 2-boat team. Maybe next time...

Today cooler, and didn't rain. Puurrfect for crankin'. Sent 5 quality routes at Eagle Wall, which looks like Shorncliffe or Wintour's Leap from the ground but there the resemblance happily ends. Maybe the cool season is here at last...

Ton Sai: every night there's a gathering for food and beer, usually starting the Sea of Love cafe. They have a saying here: 'Same same but different', like John Peel descibing The Fall! Nothing and everything happens day-in day-out...might just stay here for another week or two...