Cat Ba Island, Vietnem

This place at first seemed surreal, as we found ourselves in the kind of off-season resort that we often frequent in Spain for a quick shot of good weather and climbing. But we're in Vietnam in December, and the place is strictly locals-plus-travellers only at the moment as all the Hanoi residents are staying at home. On arrival we found ourselves a decent hotel ($10/night); since then the weather has been mostly warm and pleasant. First day: we booked a boat trip out to some islands, including stops for kayaking and climbing. All good stuff.

Things got a bit less surreal when, next day, we hired motorbikes to get around (when in Rome and all that) on an island on which, rumour has it, there are only four cars (I believe it - I've seen one of them!). Linda took a skid and lost her balance - nothing broken, but a bad graze and a swollen ankle were sustained. Back to base for some First Aid and a rethink.

Fortunately, they have 'motorbike taxis', and we've been getting around with one of those plus one normal bike for me (easy: automatic gears, I'm getting the hang - a 'girls bike' according to Linda's taxi-driver Antoine). Thus making our way to-and-from an inland crag at the idyllic Butterfly Valley, we have had two fantastic days' climbing. Tomorrow I'm heading to the National Park for a trek while Linda rests her ankle and takes a boat cruise around the sticky-up limestone islands that you've seen in the brochures. Having a truly fab time.

We plan to head back to Hanoi on Sunday in time to take another look around; fly to Bangkok on Monday, and down to Phuket on Tuesday. Then the plan is to aim via boat and via Kho Phi Phi for the island of Kho Lantau on 24 Dec.