Andy Cave was on the Beeb tonight, taking Reet Gruff Jones climbing at Stanage, which reminded me of my obligations to myself in the self-promo dept now with me being a published author and all.

I met Andy a few months ago, over a cup of tea at Crispin and Nell's place. I told him I liked his first book, and admired the way he seamlessly and skillfully wove strands of working class social commentary into his narrative, creating a synthesis of climbing/mining realism hitherto untapped in the history of mountaineering literature.

He told me if you're promoting a book don't hold back on the testosterone-fuelled narcissictic chestbeating bullshit or you'll be selling yourself short. A bit of namedropping should be OK then, eh Andy?

So I thought I'd better record some new routes of mine right here...I've been busy in the last few weeks since giving up work. Not anything to do with the canyoning guide thing, but hey ho...

North Pembroke: 2 new routes at Pencarnan Slabs near Whitesands Bay - Locum Notion and Freelance Armstrong, both HVS 5a. More on the CC website, bottom of the page here: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes_submitted/newroutes_pembroke.html

And on Staffordshire gritstone, new jewels to adorn tiara that is the Back Forest ridge, at The Western Outcrop also known as Double Overhang Butress (all solo May 2008), quite near the chasm of Lud's Church, hence the theme:

Lud Gang VS 4c
10m. Climb the buttress left of Burnham Crack: the lower bulge leads interestingly and delicately to a big ledge, upon which perches a block of finest millstone grit. Tiptoe off this stretching for good jugs, and monkey leftwards to finish. Escapable, much as every route hereabouts.

Ludyanka VS 4c *
9m. 20m to the right of Mr Creosote is an acute nose above a lower stratum, with an enticing crack and pocketed face on its left. Climb it with streches and glee. Lovely rock.

Yes M'Lud HVD
12m. 10m Right again past a heathery gully, and well before Suspended Sentences, is a slanting buttress with a cutaway base. Climb the tricky arete right of the cutaway and romp leftwards to finish.

Someone I know reckons half the reason I do new routes is so I can think up daft names - it keeps me qiet for hours.