Andy Cave was on the Beeb tonight, taking Reet Gruff Jones climbing at Stanage, which reminded me of my obligations to myself in the self-promo dept now with me being a published author and all.
I met Andy a few months ago, over a cup of tea at Crispin and Nell's place. I told him I liked his first book, and admired the way he seamlessly and skillfully wove strands of working class social commentary into his narrative, creating a synthesis of climbing/mining realism hitherto untapped in the history of mountaineering literature.
He told me if you're promoting a book don't hold back on the testosterone-fuelled narcissictic chestbeating bullshit or you'll be selling yourself short. A bit of namedropping should be OK then, eh Andy?
So I thought I'd better record some new routes of mine right here...I've been busy in the last few weeks since giving up work. Not anything to do with the canyoning guide thing, but hey ho...
North Pembroke: 2 new routes at Pencarnan Slabs near Whitesands Bay - Locum Notion and Freelance Armstrong, both HVS 5a. More on the CC website, bottom of the page here: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes_submitted/newroutes_pembroke.html
And on Staffordshire gritstone, new jewels to adorn tiara that is the Back Forest ridge, at The Western Outcrop also known as Double Overhang Butress (all solo May 2008), quite near the chasm of Lud's Church, hence the theme:
Lud Gang VS 4c
10m. Climb the buttress left of Burnham Crack: the lower bulge leads interestingly and delicately to a big ledge, upon which perches a block of finest millstone grit. Tiptoe off this stretching for good jugs, and monkey leftwards to finish. Escapable, much as every route hereabouts.
Ludyanka VS 4c *
9m. 20m to the right of Mr Creosote is an acute nose above a lower stratum, with an enticing crack and pocketed face on its left. Climb it with streches and glee. Lovely rock.
Yes M'Lud HVD
12m. 10m Right again past a heathery gully, and well before Suspended Sentences, is a slanting buttress with a cutaway base. Climb the tricky arete right of the cutaway and romp leftwards to finish.
Someone I know reckons half the reason I do new routes is so I can think up daft names - it keeps me qiet for hours.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Neolithic art at Knowth passage grave. About 30% of the known examples of neolithic art in Europe are situated at Knowth, Newgrange and the other passage tombs in the Boyne valley. 
This is one of the many kerbstones surrounding thr mound, which has an opposing twin-corridor layout. It was built before stonehenge and the pyramids, and has the most art of any neolithic monument. Christians had a good go at wrecking this place in about 1000 CE, but Newgrange remained undiscovered until the 1900s.
This is one of the many kerbstones surrounding thr mound, which has an opposing twin-corridor layout. It was built before stonehenge and the pyramids, and has the most art of any neolithic monument. Christians had a good go at wrecking this place in about 1000 CE, but Newgrange remained undiscovered until the 1900s.
, Cala Marcal. A new route - and it's brilliant!
New DWS routes in Mallorca
S Coast area, done in the week 29 April - 6 May. Topos below.
Santanyi
Green Beetle * 6a S0
Below and to the left (looking in) of the first routes at the crag is a short wall of fine rock above good water. Traverse in from easy rock on the left (looking in) and continue across the wall to a short ramp and steep exit (29 April 08).
Cala Mondragó
These new areas are on opposite sides of the bay in the National Park just down from Porto Petros and Cala D'Or. Excellent play opportunities for those wanting some quick action while the girlfriend/boyfriend/wife/husband/kids can be left happily on the on the beach or walking through the woodland. Park by the beach, or on the road down to it, or at busy times in the free car park serving the National Park a few hundred metres up the hill from the beach. On the east side of the bay, 5 minutes walk through the woods, is a sloping rock platform above a small headland with a through cave. On the east side of this is a long wall of yellow rock.
Mondragó's Guilt 4 S1 (4 May 08)
Traverse the wall towards the caves, just above sea level, for about 150m Several scramble exits possible. The landings are variable, but generally good water lies below the harder bits. A low section of 5+ (not DWS, but very low) allows access to ledges and the caves of:
Orifice Party * 6a S0 (4 May 08)
A good climb over the enticing arch under the capping overhang of the cave's eastern entrance. Good holds in pocketed rock that is more solid than it looks. Cramped, urgent moves gain the other side. Good water; can be done in either direction.
The through cave may have some possibilities but the rock is poor at the back of the cave. There is a steep (5+) way into the western entrance from its western side, and a possible traverse just below the lip of this entrance.
On the other side of the bay, 7-8 minutes walk from the beach past a second beach, is a long low wall mostly consisting of bulging overhangs. At the far end it is more broken and featured, and the following route traverses in from the left (looking in).
Mondragó West Traverse * 4 S0 (30 Apr 08)
Just above the water, traverse back towards the steep wall for about 70m until looming overhangs push you up to the crag top. Varied and interesting.
Between the bulges in the wall of rock, about 50m north of the end of the above route, is a vertical section of about 50m of brown- and white-streaked wall. This can be accessed by downclimbing at either end (4-ish) to just above sea level.
Paella Guru ** 6b+ S0 (3 May 08)
Cross the wall in either direction, with the smooth brown section providing an exciting crux just above the water. On the north side of the crux, traversing on big holds at about 5/5+ can be continued until forced up by overhangs. All above perfect water and very safe.
Cala Marçal
Art God 5 S0
Climb the overhang of Rat Dog on the left.
The headland between Cala Wall and the main cliff has a very good traverse/'up' route on its south side:
Oaker's Lab *** 5+S0
Easily visible from the way down to Cala Wall. Scramble down to the left hand side of the wall, and head out rightwards on huge holds (4+) stepping up to a ledge on a small promontary. Gain and climb the hanging ochre slab to the right, which trends rightwards on surprising holds above good water. Excellent.
Marçal Morceau * 6a S0
Across the small rocky bay from Oaker's Lab is a grey slabby wall - this is just to the right (looking in) of the Main Cliff. Descend the slabby wall (4) and move right to a rib bounding a steeper wall of dark rock. Climb the rib with a hard start on pockets.
Homerophobia 5+ S0
On the main cliff, take the descent as for The Odyssey etc, but keep going straight down until reaching sea level (4). Traverse leftwards for a few metres around an arete. Climb into a cave, then exit this steeply on its right. Go straight up to the descent ledges.
The Grate Beyond 5 S1/2
Left (looking in) of the Fat Crab, level with the first house, is a triangular nick in the clifftop above a ledge. Descend cracks below the left of the nick (4) to the foot of a slab. the arete on the right of the slab, where it meets a steep orange face. Sharp pockets above a worrying landing. Move left to finish. (all 2 May 08)
Cova del Diablo
Big Pardner* 5 S0
Climb a line of huge pockets to a short corner, 5m right of Eternal Flame (climbed by mistake for that route, and safely DWS until the final corner).
Tower of Falcons area: down to the north of the main crag is a low headland. The following routes attampted to traverse the headland but are split a steep wall above rock ledges that can't be considered DWS.
You Wanner Intro * 5 S1
Starting on the left of the headland traverse left on slabby bulges above increasingly good water for about 40m until a ramp leads down to sea-level ledges. Escape upwards.
Hop across the top of the crag for about 20-30m until easy ledges lead down almost to sea level again. The following route was done left-to-right (looking out).
You Wanner Outro ** 6a S0
Climb down an easy corner (3, not DWS) to just above sea level. Traverse juggy rock until a tricky, smooth groove (crux) just above sea level is negotiated, beyond which things ease off slightly but become steeper. Big holds lead leftwards (looking in) to ledges leading up to the crag top; or lower down, harder and more fingery moves lead to the same spot.
(All 5 May 08)
To the right are futher DWS possibilities...
S Coast area, done in the week 29 April - 6 May. Topos below.
Santanyi
Green Beetle * 6a S0
Below and to the left (looking in) of the first routes at the crag is a short wall of fine rock above good water. Traverse in from easy rock on the left (looking in) and continue across the wall to a short ramp and steep exit (29 April 08).
Cala Mondragó
These new areas are on opposite sides of the bay in the National Park just down from Porto Petros and Cala D'Or. Excellent play opportunities for those wanting some quick action while the girlfriend/boyfriend/wife/husband/kids can be left happily on the on the beach or walking through the woodland. Park by the beach, or on the road down to it, or at busy times in the free car park serving the National Park a few hundred metres up the hill from the beach. On the east side of the bay, 5 minutes walk through the woods, is a sloping rock platform above a small headland with a through cave. On the east side of this is a long wall of yellow rock.
Mondragó's Guilt 4 S1 (4 May 08)
Traverse the wall towards the caves, just above sea level, for about 150m Several scramble exits possible. The landings are variable, but generally good water lies below the harder bits. A low section of 5+ (not DWS, but very low) allows access to ledges and the caves of:
Orifice Party * 6a S0 (4 May 08)
A good climb over the enticing arch under the capping overhang of the cave's eastern entrance. Good holds in pocketed rock that is more solid than it looks. Cramped, urgent moves gain the other side. Good water; can be done in either direction.
The through cave may have some possibilities but the rock is poor at the back of the cave. There is a steep (5+) way into the western entrance from its western side, and a possible traverse just below the lip of this entrance.
On the other side of the bay, 7-8 minutes walk from the beach past a second beach, is a long low wall mostly consisting of bulging overhangs. At the far end it is more broken and featured, and the following route traverses in from the left (looking in).
Mondragó West Traverse * 4 S0 (30 Apr 08)
Just above the water, traverse back towards the steep wall for about 70m until looming overhangs push you up to the crag top. Varied and interesting.
Between the bulges in the wall of rock, about 50m north of the end of the above route, is a vertical section of about 50m of brown- and white-streaked wall. This can be accessed by downclimbing at either end (4-ish) to just above sea level.
Paella Guru ** 6b+ S0 (3 May 08)
Cross the wall in either direction, with the smooth brown section providing an exciting crux just above the water. On the north side of the crux, traversing on big holds at about 5/5+ can be continued until forced up by overhangs. All above perfect water and very safe.
Cala Marçal
Art God 5 S0
Climb the overhang of Rat Dog on the left.
The headland between Cala Wall and the main cliff has a very good traverse/'up' route on its south side:
Oaker's Lab *** 5+S0
Easily visible from the way down to Cala Wall. Scramble down to the left hand side of the wall, and head out rightwards on huge holds (4+) stepping up to a ledge on a small promontary. Gain and climb the hanging ochre slab to the right, which trends rightwards on surprising holds above good water. Excellent.
Marçal Morceau * 6a S0
Across the small rocky bay from Oaker's Lab is a grey slabby wall - this is just to the right (looking in) of the Main Cliff. Descend the slabby wall (4) and move right to a rib bounding a steeper wall of dark rock. Climb the rib with a hard start on pockets.
Homerophobia 5+ S0
On the main cliff, take the descent as for The Odyssey etc, but keep going straight down until reaching sea level (4). Traverse leftwards for a few metres around an arete. Climb into a cave, then exit this steeply on its right. Go straight up to the descent ledges.
The Grate Beyond 5 S1/2
Left (looking in) of the Fat Crab, level with the first house, is a triangular nick in the clifftop above a ledge. Descend cracks below the left of the nick (4) to the foot of a slab. the arete on the right of the slab, where it meets a steep orange face. Sharp pockets above a worrying landing. Move left to finish. (all 2 May 08)
Cova del Diablo
Big Pardner* 5 S0
Climb a line of huge pockets to a short corner, 5m right of Eternal Flame (climbed by mistake for that route, and safely DWS until the final corner).
Tower of Falcons area: down to the north of the main crag is a low headland. The following routes attampted to traverse the headland but are split a steep wall above rock ledges that can't be considered DWS.
You Wanner Intro * 5 S1
Starting on the left of the headland traverse left on slabby bulges above increasingly good water for about 40m until a ramp leads down to sea-level ledges. Escape upwards.
Hop across the top of the crag for about 20-30m until easy ledges lead down almost to sea level again. The following route was done left-to-right (looking out).
You Wanner Outro ** 6a S0
Climb down an easy corner (3, not DWS) to just above sea level. Traverse juggy rock until a tricky, smooth groove (crux) just above sea level is negotiated, beyond which things ease off slightly but become steeper. Big holds lead leftwards (looking in) to ledges leading up to the crag top; or lower down, harder and more fingery moves lead to the same spot.
(All 5 May 08)
To the right are futher DWS possibilities...
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