Monday, December 28, 2009


Where we spent Christmas, Koh Phi Phi Don.

The main crag, Ton Sai Tower, Koh Phi Phi Don.

Looking across Koh Phi Phi Don from the top of a rock climb. Our bungalow somewhere on the right...
Monkeys, and they are cheeky

Amazing crags, Koh Phi Phi Leh. Birds nesters are the only climbers who have made an impact here, more or less.

Bouldering at the beach where they filmed The Beach. Maya Beach, Koh Phi Phi Leh.
Koh Lanta, southern Thailand

Arrived here yesterday after 4 nights on Koh Phi Phi. Everyone had told us Phi Phi horrible, Lanta good, so its a surprise to find that Lanta has its downsides too. No central place to spend the evening, just a 20 km strip containing (perfect white) beaches, resorts, bars, restaurants etc. On Phi Phi, which is Party Island (a downside or an upside depending on your point of view and the location of your bungalow), you can at least walk everywhere and there are no vehicles. Good climbing too, and but few climbers due to the slightly costlier accommodation versus the nearby Railay. Very hot in the sun, climbing possible only in the shade. Snorkelling good (saw 2 sharks and a Moray the other day). Tan consequently rather neglected and patchy.

Thought it wise to go for the first of five rabies jabs today after being attacked by three male macaques on Monkey Beach, Phi Phi. I stood ground but on they came. Nothing but a small scratch, but you never know.

Here there is some caving, complete with bats. Went on a rented a motorbike (with proper manual gears...!!), then on to the cave and also to Lanta Old Town and almost down to the end of the road and the National Park, but the offroading on sand got a bit too technical. Linda bored with beach...first it was shopping, now this. She may be changing. Curly mop too, and I thought she had straight hair until we arrived in Bangkok.

Moving on tomorrow. At least it is only a few hours boat or bus to the next stop, Krabi or Railay, so no need for a multiday epic.

Friday, December 18, 2009


It's hard to say what my girlfriend does. She sells sea shells on the sea shore...

Our 5* hotel, Cat Ba

Blocks of ice at point of delivery to a fishing boat, Cat Ba harbour

Butterfly Valley, Cat Ba's top climbing spot...

Men at Work, Cat Ba Town, distributing skiddy gravel all over the place...

Linda and Antoine the Motorbike Taxi Man

Anders on Hippie Banana Tree Killer (7b+), Butterfly Valley

Linda on Roots Reggae (4+), Butterfly Valley

Anna the Swede on A Dengue Ate My Davey (6c+)

Anders the Norse on the excellent and very steep Cracker Jack (6c), Butterfly Valley, CatBa

Them deadly motorbikes, Butterfly Valley, Cat Ba island

North end of the road, Cat Ba island

The 'Polish Pillar' - made to be climbed!

The submerged Cat Ba karst landscape, like a mini-Dolomites after global warming...


Ben Bao harbour
It seems that Canyoning in Southern Europe is to be translated into Polish. According to Poltran.com it could translate as *Canyoning* w Południowej Europie by *John* Spekulant (zwyżkowy; grać na zwyżkę).

It will be interesting trying to keep on top of abbing, rapping, Farmer Johns and shorties without an international misunderstanding.
Today I've been motorbikin' around Cat Ba Island, and taking in a bit of the National Park where you can hike up to a rickety watchtower in the jungle and go up six flights of rusty stairs to a viewing platform. No sign of the endangered monkey species of Cat Ba Langurs though: apparrently there are only 60 left. Linda took a boating option to rest her still-swollen ankle following the motorbike tumble, but it's been a cold day and it can't have been much fun.

We're a little bored with the food. You can have anything you like so long as it's spring rolls + beef/pork/chicken +/- stir fry/noodles/fried rice or noodle soup or fish +/- chilli or soy sauce. Looking forward to the culinary variety available everywhere in Thailand.

I have a theory that they invented the Pot Noodle in Vietnam, and will be investigating.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Cat Ba Island, Vietnem

This place at first seemed surreal, as we found ourselves in the kind of off-season resort that we often frequent in Spain for a quick shot of good weather and climbing. But we're in Vietnam in December, and the place is strictly locals-plus-travellers only at the moment as all the Hanoi residents are staying at home. On arrival we found ourselves a decent hotel ($10/night); since then the weather has been mostly warm and pleasant. First day: we booked a boat trip out to some islands, including stops for kayaking and climbing. All good stuff.

Things got a bit less surreal when, next day, we hired motorbikes to get around (when in Rome and all that) on an island on which, rumour has it, there are only four cars (I believe it - I've seen one of them!). Linda took a skid and lost her balance - nothing broken, but a bad graze and a swollen ankle were sustained. Back to base for some First Aid and a rethink.

Fortunately, they have 'motorbike taxis', and we've been getting around with one of those plus one normal bike for me (easy: automatic gears, I'm getting the hang - a 'girls bike' according to Linda's taxi-driver Antoine). Thus making our way to-and-from an inland crag at the idyllic Butterfly Valley, we have had two fantastic days' climbing. Tomorrow I'm heading to the National Park for a trek while Linda rests her ankle and takes a boat cruise around the sticky-up limestone islands that you've seen in the brochures. Having a truly fab time.

We plan to head back to Hanoi on Sunday in time to take another look around; fly to Bangkok on Monday, and down to Phuket on Tuesday. Then the plan is to aim via boat and via Kho Phi Phi for the island of Kho Lantau on 24 Dec.

Monday, December 14, 2009

This is Hanoi...imagine scooters x 1 million...




Spot the weasel coffee...a Hanoi market


Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, Thailand


Climbing at Crazy Horse, Chiang Mai



The oblig Jungle Trek


Tangled history at Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thailand



Brush up at the temple


A bridge, River Kwai

One night in Bangkok